RPi SD Card Failure & Booting from USB



Card corruption isn’t anything new on the RPi, if your a Raspberry Pi owner it is a fair bet that you shall encounter it eventually.

Over the years ever since owning my first Pi, I had to deal with the occasional segmentation fault. But I’d never encounter a full blown SD card failure until the other day, when quite unexpectedly the PiDP8/i decided to have a system melt down. The first signs indicating something wasn’t quite right, was when I discovered my fail2ban jail log was corrupt, full of complete gobbledygook. After a reboot of the server, I discovered everything was back to normal or so it had seemed. The next indication problems lay ahead was when I noticed files I’d previously deleted had reappeared on the SD card. Now if there’s one thing Linux is good at letting the user do, it’s delete precious files without much chance of recovery. I once deleted an entire partition of my hard drive by mistake and yes, spent what was left of the night reinstalling Xebuntu. Linux is a powerful OS in the right hands but for the experienced it can be a steep learning curve of mistakes and mishaps.

After spending a full day working on my SD card, I discovered sure enough that the internal 8GB card had died a death. I read from the drive, but could neither format or re-partition it.

So what now? Well my next step is going to be getting my hands on a new SD Card, but I’m not so certain I feel comfortable using it as the primary storage on my PiDP8/i server. Everything I’ve read online indicates using SD cards for prolonged periods is not a great idea, mainly due to the limitations of the technology which doesn’t lend it self to constant read / writes. It’s worth remembering that ever since the first compact flash drive, memory cards were originally intended for cameras and PDA devices, neither of which really hammer the SD card unlike Linux. SD cards have a finite number of read / writes, from the time you plug it in, your memory card is degrading. On a short time project this isn’t a problem and there is evidence to suggest capacity does play a part, with larger cards such as 32, 64 and 128gb lasting longer then 8gb ones. Still if I want my server to be online 24/7, I’m better off finding a more reliable and permanent solution.

A hard drive is one I guess, but a little bit overkill for the tiny PiDP8/i. Which is why I’ve spent the past few days looking up ways to boot the Pi2 model b motherboard from a USB flash drive. Research suggests boot time will be faster and reliability significantly better then using SD. So in my next article I’m going to cover the process of setting up a RPi2 model B with the OS installed on USB pen. If your a Pi3 owner you have two choices, you can follow what I’m doing and it should work just fine. But unlike earlier models, the Pi3 can boot directly from USB by altering the OPT within firmware. Once enabled the Pi will search SD and USB until it finds a bootable partition.



Christmas Picade Giveaway


Greetings to all you t’interweb surfers, its that time of year again and here at ByteMyVdu we like sharing the festive spirit. I say we, but really it’s me, muggins sitting at the keyboard doing everything, using the royal ‘we’ just sounds better!

Over the past 12 months I’ve built a PiDP8i, a RetroFlag NESPi, Modded a 60s radio and played about with a Sinclair QL. I’ve also built another Amiga 600Pi, refined the designed and improved on what I did the first time around and after all of that, I’ve yet to upload it to my site.

All that aside its Christmas, a time for good will and giving friends and family gifts wrapped in pretty paper. So as a thank you to the poor soul who accidently set their home page to my site, I’m releasing a spanking new set of Picade cabinet artwork. Drawing inspiration from the 80s, these templates will turn any unadorned Picade in to retro throwback. I’ve been asked a couple of times over the past year about my Picade art, so I decided to make some new never seen before templates. There’s already quite a few out there on the Pimoroni forum but a lot of them are either using copyrighted material or trying to replicate an existing arcade cabinet such as Asteroids or Bubble bobble. That’s alright, but I wanted something a little more unique to the Picade, hopefully that’s what I ended up with. Either way I hope someone out there will have fun with them, Merry Christmas you guys! 🙂

Legal fluff – These templates are offered as is and are strictly intended as freeware, for none profit purposes.








Picade Build and Cabinet Art


Produced by Pimoroni, a British company based in Sheffield, the Picade is an all singing and dancing tabletop arcade cabinet that can be put together in an afternoon. For £180 you get everything needed to build your own working cabinet (minus the Raspberry Pi) such as:

  • Black powder-coated cabinet panels
  • Picade PCB (Arduino compatible with stereo 2.8W amplifier) pre-loaded with the Picade software.
  • LCD panel mount with protective overlay
  • 8″ LCD panel & driver board
  • 2x speakers
  • 3.5mm stereo panel mounted headphone socket
  • Attractive decals for the marquee and controls
  • HDMI, audio, and USB cables
  • A proper arcade joystick
  • Twelve micro-switch arcade buttons
  • Custom assembled wiring looms
  • All other fixings, fastenings, nuts, and bolts

The kit is primarily geared towards users of the Raspberry Pi, but that doesn’t mean you couldn’t use it with a mini ITX board or Odroid. In fact the rear door on which you mount the logic board has markings for several different models of computer not just the Pi. Anticipating the needs of their customers, Pimoroni have designed the kit with the hacking and modding community in mind, something they do with a lot of their products.


Everything you need to make your own arcade

In 2012 when Pimoroni began their Kickstarter for the Picade I had an opportunity to try a working unit, needless to say the experience was enough to leave me wanting one. It wasn’t until the early last year when I finally got one of their kits but sadly didn’t have any time to assemble it. So the kit sat waiting on my to do list till October came around, when finally my partner and I put it together over several evenings. Assembling the Picade is pretty straight forward so long as you follow the PDF guide provided on Pimoroni’s website. There is also a video guide but in my opinion it is in need of updating, as it led us astray more than once. In the end we resorted to consulting the PDF exclusively, my partner reading the instructions as I placed the pieces together. Contrary to what the video tutorial suggests, make sure to tighten all the screws and nuts using a screw driver, otherwise your cabinet will soon begin to wobble and come apart as mine did after a few plays of DigDug.

The black power coated finish of Picade really sets it off with an old arcade feel, the buttons and joystick are of good quality and fairly responsive to use. At some point I will likely swap them out for more 80s recessed style buttons, but for now they get the job done and look fine.img_20161123_154601

The Picade comes bundled with an 8” flat panel LCD screen. Originally the kit was available with a 12” panel but I understand supplies dried up and Pimoroni have been unable to source any more at a reasonable price. At first when I removed the panel from its packaging I thought it was mighty small and had some misgivings about its effectiveness for playing games on, but honesty I hadn’t need for concern. The 8” panel compliments the cabinet really well and once your in playing Pacman or Pole Position you really don’t notice it. The picture is clear, sharp and the colours a vibrant, my only regret is the absence of any scanlines, but that’s more a personal preference and something I can probably fix within the Retro Pie software.

With the cabinet built, it is just a case of flashing an SD card with the relevant Retro Pie image, which you can download via their website @ https://retropie.org.uk. Setup is relatively painless and straight forward and should see you up and running in no time at all. Something I did discovered on my first outing, is that RetroPie has more than one Mame emulator to choose from and some ROMs work better in one than they do the other. If you find like I did that a great many of img_20170217_185138your ROMs aren’t working, you may wish to try using the other Mame emulator. The reason this happens is down to the chipsets the Mame is running, different revisions can sometimes expect different files to be present within the ROM archive. Newer revisions tend to be more compatible but unfortunately the one available on Raspbian isn’t, which is why RetroPie comes with more then one Mame emulator. Swapping between the different versions can be as simple as copying your ROMsets to the appropriate folder on your SD card. It is also possible to change it from within Retropie, just after selecting your ROM the option appear on screen to change the default settings, this also includes which version of Mame is used to run the selected ROMset.

When put together, the Picade and Retro Pie compliment one another well and one can hardly imagine one without the other, both are polished and easily accessible products.

Unfinished Business

img_20170213_151551When I began to assemble the Picade, I knew from the get go that I wanted to design some custom cabinet art for it – something that harkened back to the days of my childhood with crazy neon colours and funky 8 bit sprites. One thing about the Picade is that the only decals that come with it are for the marque and the control panel, the sides of the cabinet are left alone. As pretty as the powder coating is, I couldn’t help feel there was something better to do with them, such as cover them up with something bright and retro! So I went about designing the art on my recently aqcuired 15” Powerbook G4. Anyone who says PPC has had its day can go suck a lemon as far as I’m concerned, as this laptop not only oozes style but clocking in at 1.55Ghz it runs Photoshop without breaking a sweat.

img_20170119_162942As you can probably see in the photos from an early stage there was a very distinct 80s theme going on. One thing I had to keep in mind was to make sure the decal art lined up with the side panels on the cabinet, as I wasn’t just contending with the outside edge of each panel but also the various screw holes and speaker grills that the decals would be covering.

The side art is protected by 1mm thick sheet of clear acrylic that has been cut out to the same shape and size of both MDF side panels. Eventually I plan on making the marquee backlit so that the Picade logo and colours are more vivid to the eye.



Back for 2017



Hello dear reader! Did you miss us?

BMV is back for another year and I have a lot of fun articles I’d like to cover and maybe we can fit in a few interviews this year from people active in the community. I’m sorry the blog has been a bit quiet but I was away busily tinkering, working on my Atari Lynx video conversion, making an AmigaPi 1200 and several more USB tank mice for friends who wouldn’t stop pestering me for one after seeing the one I’d built I’ve also been playing with a Powerbook 180 and discovering the pitfalls of LCD tunnelling which the entire 100 series seems to suffer from.

Blasting away from 2016 is my Picade build which I finished just before Christmas, now in 2017 I put the finishing touches to the cabinet with some retro electric 80s art. Keep your eyes peeled as I’ll be offering up free cabinet decal art for anyone looking to deck out their Picade in proper 80s style!


Converting an Amiga Joystick to USB

AmigaPiReaders of my blog will probably have seen the Amiga 600PI I built not so long ago, using a Raspberry PI 2 under the hood. Out of all the projects, I honestly have to say this was a labour of love and a lot fun project to build. But like any build, there are the obligatory tweaks that must be made to fix things that might have been missed the first time around. Issues that only became obvious after using a build for a week or two. Which is pretty much how it was for me with the AmigaPi.

After using the AmigaPI for a couple of weeks, I began noticing one or two problems. First on the list, wasn’t so much a hardware problem as software. UAE4ARM is the de facto Amiga emulator for the Raspberry pi, in shorts it’s pretty amazing. But as fantastic as it is, there is yet to be any support for remapping the keyboard. This is useful if you like playing games using the cursor keys or say your old skool and prefer using the good old Spectrum controls Z,X,O,P. At the time of writing, this still isn’t an option, which means its still isn’t possible to make use of the built in joystick ports on my KeyRah V2 interface. Sadly it seems no matter how much people plead for the feature to be implemented, those bringing UAE4Arm to the Pi are focusing on performance over functionality. Which is understandable, as any good emulator requires a decent level of real time performance. Afterall nobody wants to play Amiga games at a snails pace with choppy sound. But in the pursuit for good performance, other features have been neglected. Making UAE4Arm a good attempt, but still vastly lacking when compared to FS-UAE or Win-UAE. Both of which offer a far more advanced level of configuration, we can only hope that UAE4Arm will one day follow suit. Given the number of people using their Raspberry Pi for gaming, it would be a missed opportunity if it didn’t.


Controller of choice for most Retroarch fans

In the meantime the only way to play games on UAE4Arm is using a controller, usually this means hooking up an Xbox 360 joypad. I know a lot of people use these on their RetroArch gaming setups as they’re easy to get hold of. Chances are if you own a 360, you already have one laying about the house. However for me, seeing one hooked up to an Amiga 600 seemed as out of place as a Chippendale in a nunnery.

My AmigaPi needed a proper looking joystick, not some Microsoft rubbish. Now there are a couple of ways this can be achieved. Firstly, you can purchase the ready made USB Competition Pro by Speedlink. It looks just like the original, except for the USB connector on the end of the lead. I did seriously consider getting one of those, however digging a little deeper, I discovered more then a few people complaining about lack luster performance. While opinions on the internet are ten a penny, usually where there’s smoke, there’s fire. And at £20 a pop, I didn’t fancy finding out which opinion was right. Especially when I was pretty confident that I could build my own joystick for a fraction of the price.

Buiding A Joystick

The first thing I had to find was a bust Amiga Joystick, I certainly wasn’t about to break a working one just for a hack. At least taking something that is broken and giving it a new life, you’re recycling and not just throwing it in landfill. Luckily in my loft I had a non-working Cheetah 128, which had been
a spare for my Spectrum, until it died.PRODPIC-13190-1

Taking it apart, I was surprised with the simplicity of the internal workings. Unlike some of my quickshot sticks, the Cheetah use simple metal pads to create open and shut gates. Press forward on the joystick and two metal pads would connect to make a circuit. Luckily for me, this would actually worked in my favour, as it would make converting the stick to USB pretty simple. The only problem now was finding the right sort of USB controller. Scouring the net, I found one company that sold a custom analogue to USB adapters, however they wanted £16! I thought this was a little pricey for a single sided, through hole PCB with only chip. It was after all, doing essentially what all the cheap Chinese controllers were doing – translating the inputs from a series of switches / buttons into something the computer could understand as UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT and FIRE.

Ebay is full of USB controllers styled after SNES, NES and 360 joypads, which you can pick up for as little as a few quid. I was pretty sure one of these would contain everything I needed to convert the Cheetah to USB. So biting the bullet, I bought myself one and waited for it to arrive in the post.

A Note on Retro Game Pad Copies

Clones, not always as good as the originals.

Clones, not always as good as the originals.

After arriving at my doorstep, the first thing I noticed was the quality or lack of it Looks were pretty much the only thing the USB pad shared with the original super Nintendo controller. Unlike the latter, the build quality was cheap and flimsy and not at all solid as you’d expect. A quick game of Super Frog on the Amiga Pi quickly revealed how bad it really was, with the D pad often mashing two directions together. Resulting in a lot of unintentional left and right jumps that left me crying for it to end. After ten frustrating minutes I’d had enough and unplugged it. After seeing how rubbish it performed, I felt less guilty about scavenging it’s innards for my joystick mod.


Fitting A Square Block In A Round Hole

Inside the controller, I was faced with a major problem. The joy pad wasn’t constructed anything close to how I’d been expecting. Spanning the full width of the pad was a single PCB, populated with contact-less switches. I’d foolishly been expecting the pad to use mechanical switches, which I could have easily rewired. However a friend later explained to me that a lot of things these days are built using single a PCB to cut down the cost on components. In light of this revelation, I faced having to solder to the surface of the board. While not my joystick1preferred way of doing things, I’d just have to like it or lump it. If that wasn’t bad enough, the darn PCB turned out to be 2cm wider then the base of the Cheetah. I’d have to work some serious magic with my Dremmel if it was ever going to fit in the base.

One of the hazards with chopping up a PCB, is that they don’t usually work afterwards, not without a bit of rewiring. Such as reconnected broken ground planes etc, which are needed for the circuit board to function. Lucky for me the design was pretty simple, but I was still thrown a couple of times, chasing the ground. Having never attempted anything like this before, it was a learning process for me, figuring out how the board worked and where best to solder to. This was especially true, as I began cutting portions away to make it fit inside the base. After removing almost all the direction pads and three of the fire buttons, the PCB was finally narrow enough to fit inside the Cheetah, hurray!

joystick2If you fancy trying your hand at hacking your own joystick, my advice is to take your time, don’t rush and make a photographic record of your progress. Pictures can come in really handy if a wire pops out and your left wondering where the heck it came from!

To reduce the number of wires I had floating around inside the joystick, I shared the ground from one point on the PCB to all the other contacts. Interestingly, unlike other joysticks of the day, the Cheetah uses a cloverleaf for the main directional stick (pictured left). The only other joystick I know that shares this design, is the original Sinclair sticks that came with the grey Plus 2. This design actually made wiring everything up a lot easier, as its much simpler than those with internal switches. Beneath the star shaped metal plate are four contact screws, which represent UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT. Using wire I’d stripped from an old IDE cable, I hooked the contacts up to those on controller’s D-pad. This is when having photo’s comes it really handy, as more then once I lost my way with the traces on the board. But consulting some photos, I figured out what I was doing wrong and soon had UP going to UP, LEFT going to LEFT and so on.


IDE cable is great for fine work like this

In theory, when connect to a USB port, the board would register the movement of the stick just as it had the original D-pad. While I recycled a lot of the Cheetah’s original wiring, I also used a lot of wire from an old IDE cable. Not only is it very flexible, but its also very low gauge, which makes it perfect for soldering to the tiny traces on the joypads PCB.

First Test

After the wiring, came the next challenge: hooking the joystick up to a USB port and hoping it worked. I’d already had the pad albeit in original form, connected to my Windows PC. It worked straight out the box with a minimal amount of setting up. Hooking it back up, I was pleased to find everything worked first time! joypad4After a game of Stunt Car (obviously!) on WinUAE, I began wondering about the buttons in the base of the Cheetah and whether or not they could be made to work. True the wiring inside was more jammed than a sumo wrestler in a phone box. But I wasn’t satisfied, I wanted those darn buttons to work. After all, the natural way of holding the Cheetah was with both hands. The whole time I’d been playing Stunt Car, I kept feeling the urge to use the lower buttons instead of the trigger.

Achieving this feat took some hacking, I can tell you. First I had to find room for the micro switches. There was barely any for them to sit between the PCB and the lid, the only option was to cut out a cavity in the buttons for the switches to sit inside.



From left to right, a converted button next to one waiting to be altered.

As you can see pictured, this was finally how the buttons looked, with the switches recessed inside the red plastic housing. It took several failed attempts on my part, before I found the right depth for the switches. But eventually I was firing nitros in Stunt Car without a hitch. I think the scariest moment was when I screwed everything together. With the top and base finally secured, I was worried everything would squashed together. Luckily, I didn’t need to worry, as it worked fine.


And here is a final image, which I think pretty much captures my feeling at the end of this hack.



This trophy’s bigger then my head!!




Raspberry Pi 4th Birthday Bash

Held in Cambridge on the 5th and 6th of March at the Cambridge Computer Laboratory, the official Raspberry Pi birthday celebrates the fourth year since the release of the original Raspberry Pi Model B. Going from strength to strength since its initial release, the success of the Raspberry Pi can’t be denied. This is made even more apparent by the fact the birthday bash is a sold out event, with people coming from all around the country and also Europe to celebrate this tiny micro computer. Attending the event where Pihut, CPC, IQaudio, PiTop, { Code Club }, Pimoroni and LinuxUser Magazine, to name but a few. This only skims the surface, as the event was teeming with clever boffins with something to display. If you missed this year’s birthday bash, I highly recommend trying to attend one or any Pi event in your area in the future. The atmosphere is inspiring and the people warm and friendly.

End of Day One

Thoroughly geeked out, the first day was a blast. This was my first time at a Raspberry Pi event and I have to say, it was an eye opener. Making it certain that I’ll be attending more in the future. Over the Saturday, I met some wonderful, friendly people, such as the

Amazing Pi Laptops from Pi-Top

Amazing Pi Laptops from Pi-Top

fantastic peeps from LinuxUser, who are clearly just as passionate about retro gaming as they are about Linux. The dead give away to this was the Pi Zero powered Xbox controller on their table, running Retroarch. Not only was I invited to play a game of Doom, but they even gave me a copy of their Magazine, containing tips on the Linux Terminal. Now I ask you, who can turn their nose up at that, seriously? Next in line for a mention is the chap from Pi-top, if you’ve not heard about Pi-top, they produce two impressive cases specifically for the Raspberry PI and I highly recommend looking them up. Having played around with the laptop model of the Pi-top, I can honestly say I was impressed. As you can probably tell from the photo, the striking green case it certainly eye catching. Pimoroni were also present, showing off their popular Picade and Flotilla products, which as one can expect, drew in a crowd.

Raspberry Pi3

Released only days before the birthday bash, the Pi 3 comes with Bluetooth and wireless built in, not to mention an A53 processor, clocked at 1.25Ghz. 10x faster than the original Pi, the Pi 3 is a quad-core computer like the Pi 2, however unlike the P2, which uses a 32bit CPU, the Pi 3 is 64bit. This step up, will scientifically improve the performance of the Pi, placing feasibly within the same realm of some laptops and Atom based net tops.

At the time of its release, the Pi 2 Model B was considered by many, myself included, as a lightweight desktop computer. That being the case, the specs of the Pi 3 most certainly elevate the fruity micro from just an educational computer to something that could easily be used at home for surfing the net and playing games. And while the primary goal of the Pi is to get kids back into computers (something it is doing remarkably well), both the Spectrum and C64 of yester years, owe much of their success to the games that were developed for them. Many of the kids playing those games back in the day later become programmers in their own right. Perhaps it’s just nostalgia, but I would love to imagine there are a bunch of kids out there some place, learning Python or Scratch, developing the next Dizzy or Crash Bandicoot on their humble Raspberry Pi 2/3, perhaps because playing games on Retroarch, inspired them to do so.


Day Two

The beginning to the second day at the birthday bash, began with a sausage sandwich and a cup of tea. Not very technical I know, but essential if you want the grey matter in your noggin to boot up! Fuelled up, the first event on my schedule was to sit in on Eban Upton’s talk about the Rapberry Pi. I had intended to record the talk for you guys to hear, so I set my Nexus 5 recording throughout the session. Sadly the recording sounded more akin to a scuba diver dictating into a baked bean tin while riding upon a flatulent whale. Instead you’ll have to settle for a photo of the Eban I took just before he beganeban. The talk overall was insightful and fun, Eban was down to earth in explaining the development of the Pi 3. He also made a point of crediting the people behind its development, the faces we don’t see who work tirelessly to develop, innovate and burn much of the midnight oil in an effort to make the Pi 3 a reality.

There was also mention of the AstroPi, which recently travelled in to space, on its way to the international space station. Without the doubt, the Astro Pi is one of the most expensive Pi every built, requiring a specially built enclose and mounts, made from some pricey materials.

After the talk, I found myself chatting to Jon Prove, director of Sales for Pi Top, a cool guy, who is clearly enthusiastic about the Raspberry Pi in general. I’d already spoken to one of his colleagues the previous day. I had seen Jon, but he was knee deep in people interested in his product.

Later I caught a talk on Sonic Pi, an adaptable music generator which you can program to create a wide variety of sounds. At the party the night before, its creator, Dr Sam Aaron performed live. Being as it was my first exposure to Sonic Pi, I have to say I was impressed. At times the music Aaron was playing, sounded uncannily like Daft Punk. It certainly left me wanting to learn more about the software, which thanks to the talk I now feel a little more informed about.

Dr Sam Aaron rocking with SonicPi

Dr Sam Aaron rocking with SonicPi

Not all the vendors who attended the first day, were present on the Sunday. CPCs table was unoccupied, but left on their table were freebies and a note, wishing everyone a fun day and to help themselves to one of the goodies they had left behind, ranging from Pi shaped coasters, pens, stickers and even some Pi cases. Now wasn’t that jolly well nice of them? FYI, I nabbed a coaster!

One of the nice features of the event was the layout, the ground floor held all the vendors and talks, the second and third floor were for workshops and also quiet spaces. Handy if you happen to be carrying around your G4 iBook and wanting to quickly jot down notes for your blog. Thank goodness I bought a new battery as the old one would never have lasted long enough!


Raspberry Pi Winamp


Ah Linux, how we do love you, but why oh why are we forsaken to never enjoy a media player such as Winamp! I mean Parole is good, VLC isn’t bad either..But still, it isn’t Winamp is it? If your like me, then the Llama kicking audio player will be one of your staple apps. Its been on every one of my Windows machines for the past 12-13 years. So imagine my disappointment when I started using Linux 4 years ago and didn’t really find anything remotely like it. Fast forward to present day, last Monday to be precise and I’d got my newly built Amiga 600PI running pretty well, the only thing missing was a kickass mp3 player. After doing a search online, I found plenty of people in the same boat, they liked Linux, but they missed Winamp. After doing a little more digging  I learned about XMMS2 and the interesting things people had been doing to make it look like Winamp. Rolling up my sleeves, I gave it a go and while it wasn’t totally straight forward on the Raspberry PI, the results were still pretty successful, so read on.

The first thing you need to do, is install XMMS2 and Promoe client. I did this via the synaptic package manager. Which you can download via this terminal command.

Sudo apt-get install synaptic

Screenshot from 2015-11-19 13:17:19

When you have it installed, open it up and find these files. XMMS2 Promoe Once you have those two files installed, you will find Promoe is now listed in the Sound & Video section of your start menu. Run Promoe at least once, simply to test it works and also to allow XMMS2 to initialize itself. When your done, close the program and we’ll move on to the next step.

Audacious Classic Winamp skin, kicks the Llama’s ass!

Luckily the skins for Audacious seem to work on XMMS2 or perhaps thats the other way around, XMMS skins work with Audacious. Eitherway we need a classic Winamp skin to proceed, so go online and download the classic skin here.


You should now have a file called “135799-winamp_classic.wsz“, make a new folder and call it ‘Winamp’, extract the archive inside it. See pic Right now here is the part where I hit trouble. According to everything I read online, Promoe stores its skins in the following location.


At least it would, if the location existed, which is didn’t on my system. When I navigated to the xmms2 folder, I discovered the ‘clients’ folder wasn’t there.

Here’s a handy tip if your trying to find a file or folder in on your Raspberry PI
find / -name filename 2>/dev/null
Swap out ‘filename’ for the name of what your looking for, press enter and wait. Your PI will now go off searching the entire SD card in search of your file. I used this to search for the missing ‘clients’ folder.

Even if the folder structure doesn’t exist, Promoe was still instructed to look in that location. So the best thing to do is make the directories ourselves, as Promoe will then find any skins we want to install. Because the xmms2 folder is a root folder, we’ll need root access to make alterations. Open the terminal and type

sudo nautilus

A new window will open up. You’re now navigating the file system with super user access, so be mindful young padwan. As one wrong keystroke or click here and you could break the entire operating system. And trust me, you really don’t want that! From the top menu, click ‘View’ and make sure “Show hidden files” is enabled. Now on the left panel, click on “File system”. Find the icon named ‘Home’, open it and then open the folder called ‘pi’. Next find a folder named ‘.config’, it will only be visible if you have ‘Show hidden files’ selected. Open the folder and scroll down until you find ‘xmms2’. Open the folder and from the top menu, click ‘File/Create New Folder’, name the folder ‘client’, making sure to keep it lowercase.
Open the ‘client’ folder and create another folder, this time name it ‘promoe’,

Should look like this

Should look like this

again all lowercase. Still following me? good, because we are almost done. Finally within ‘promoe’, make one last directory and name is ‘skins’. All going to plan, you will now have the follow directory structure;



But wait, we aren’t finished yet, we still need a skin to put inside the skins folder. If you downloaded the one I mentioned earlier, you need to copy the ‘Winamp’ folder in to the skins directory. The simplest way to do this is a drag and drop. First open the ‘skins’ folder you created, then from the start bar, open a new file manager window. Locate your ‘Winamp’ folder and drag it over to the open ‘skins’ folder. Now let us see if it all worked, fire up Promoe, by default it uses the Almond-blue theme. Click on the little blue box in the top left of the interface, from the drop down menu, select ‘Theme settings’. You should now see the Winamp skin listed, click it and voila! Winamp Classic on your Raspberry PI!

Screenshot from 2015-11-19 12:59:34

You can now close all the other windows, especially the one displaying the ‘skins’ folder. Once closed, it will terminate your root access and once more protect your system from any accidental clicks. Until next time, keep on geeking!